In my world, luuuunch denotes an afternoon of eating, perhaps a glass of wine (who's kidding?), and a long leisurely repartee with friends. Now that's what I call luuuunch! And by the looks of the customers wining and dining along side me this particular afternoon, Backstreet Restaurant fans subscribe to the same philosophy.
Backstreet's remains a town haunt where friends gather throughout the day to grab a bite, a cocktail, or a cup of coffee. Gold plates pressed into the woodwork of the bar bear the names of regulars.
While I wait for my lunch date to arrive, I happily sip on a glass of Sauvignon Blanc at the intimate bar. There, I catch up on the goings on in town from "the boys" having lunch.
Tim, a loyal Backstreet's customer, is served a plate of Shrimp Francaise (large shrimp sautéed with white wine, lemon and butter), fresh spinach and spaghetti tossed with olive oil and garlic.
"It's a dish made especially for me," he beams.
Chef David Johnson knows his customers, and that homey vibe is palpable.
My date arrives, hungry and ready for a relaxing afternoon. We must start with the Cajun Popcorn, as it's been on the menu for over 20 years. A mound of seasoned battered rock shrimp comes with a remoulade sauce for dipping. Not as spicy as I remember them to be, the dish falls flat. We spruce them up a bit with lemon, salt and pepper, but they still don't quite satisfy.
What does satisfy are the Grilled Barbeque Shrimp: four jumbo meaty shrimp marinated with tequila and lime, and wrapped in bacon. The smoky bacon is a fabulous contrast to the sweeter marinade of the shrimp, and the rosemary Dijon sauce is a flavorful partner.
While there's more to this restaurant profile to come, if you remember nothing else going forward, take note of this dish: French Onion Soup Au Gratin. Oh my goodness. This fabulously rich, sweet, onion-y broth is an obvious long simmering labor of love. Chef Johnson has mastered the art of a refined, intense, flavorful soup, topped with thick country bread to soak up all that the goodness, then blanketed with pungent Swiss (perhaps Gruyere) cheese, which melts down the sides of the bowl and slightly crisps up on top. It's perfect. I did not want to share it, but I did—reluctantly.
The Warm Spiral Pasta salad arrives, bright and colorful, with tri-colored pasta, fresh greens, and blanched carrots and broccoli florets. It is topped with juicy pieces of pounded chicken breast and tossed with warm vinaigrette. The dish is light, simple, clean, and no doubt healthful. As with all of the dishes at Backstreets, the portion is ample.
Sandwiches at Backstreets run the gamut. We opt for the Blackened Chicken with melted cheddar, mayo, lettuce and tomato on a wonderfully soft French bread roll. It may sound basic, and it is, but it is done right.
Scrumptious omelets and juicy burgers are also on the menu for lunch, as is heartier fare, such as their signature calves liver with bacon and onions. One of the only restaurants in town to make this dish, regulars appreciate knowing that they can always count on Chef Johnson to prepare the highly underrated masterpiece.
Desserts are all homemade. Tempted by the brownie sundae and the crème brulee, we agree upon the Carrot Cake. Straight from the fridge, the cake is slightly dense, but sweet and tasty, with plenty of large pieces of walnuts. The cream cheese frosting had a hint of lemon, a nice contrast with the sweet-spiced cake. Had the chill been taken away and the frosting been creamier, this good cake may have been great.
We peruse the room while waiting for the check. Groups of women are lingering over cups of coffee and chocolate cake (that looks good!), laughing the afternoon away. One gentleman is solo, happily reading his paper and enjoying a pint of beer while awaiting his lunch. The bar brew-ha-ha can be heard throughout the room. It's a wonderfully joyful sound of neighbors catching up and strangers making new acquaintances. Now that's what I call luuuunch!
